Last stop Chile – Santiago, Valparaiso and Viña del Mar

Yes well…We’ve actually been home nearly 5 months and finally I am getting around to finishing off the blog.

We had our last night in Colombia back in beautiful-but-sweaty Cartagena and by the time we arrived at our hotel after our flight from San Andres Island, it was really too late to do anything except eat, have a quick re-pack and fall into bed. The air conditioning was set at 25 degrees and it felt absolutely freezing because outside it was about 36 degrees and incredibly humid. Next day we had a short-ish flight down to Bogota airport, then another 6 hour one from Bogota right down to Santiago in Chile, our final departure point.  I sometimes forget how enormous this continent is and how long it takes to get anywhere, even by air.  Yawn.

Talk about a shock to the system: suddenly the temperature had plummeted from Too-Hot-to-Wear-Anything degrees down to Oh-My-God-It’s-Freezing degrees. And where the hell did we pack our merinos? We were in Santiago for only three nights but it was overcast or raining pretty much all the time and really the best part of it was the lovely boutique hotel we stayed in , which was in a lovely leafy street of the district of Providencia.  Our particular street really felt like a little corner of Paris and it had a lovely little restaurant attached to it, where we ate on two out of the three nights.  The rest of Santiago was kind of forgettable really, or maybe it was partly the grey weather, drab buildings and the fact that we were at the end of a long trip.  Anyway, we had a day tootling about on the Hop On Hop Off bus around Santiago city, and then did a whole day bus trip over to the (west) colourful coastal towns of Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, about a two hour drive away.

Valparaiso is famous for its colourful houses and wall art, and also its ancient and rickety funicular “elevators”, called “Ascensores” in Spanish, which transport people up and down the hillsides at a scarily steep pitch.  There used to be around 30 of them and now there are only about 13 or 14 still operating, but on one particular downward journey I found myself wondering idly if this would be the last and possibly fatal trip down on that particular elevator.   Unfortunately it rained pretty much the whole day, with a bone-chilling wind, which detracted a bit from the beauty of the places we visited, mostly on foot.  But we did come across the ultimate in ghastly Christmas ornaments there – a  nativity scene inside a pottery llama (see photo).

Back in Santiago, the day we were due to leave they had an incessant downpour of very heavy rain the entire day, with flooding everywhere.  But we sloshed around the nearby streets for a last airing and met a very dejected-looking dog with two different coloured eyes who stuck to us like glue for ages after we said ‘Ola’ to him (he only spoke Spanish) and gave him a pat.  There was some doubt whether we would be able to get to the airport by taxi for our Midnight departure, but luckily we made it.  I managed to talk my way –  in Spanish I might add – into getting an exit row for us on the flight back to Auckland, which was a definite bonus.

We arrived in Auckland at 4.30am local time and our favourite fellow Frosty Top Tour friend, Bill, who lives in Auckland, very kindly came out to the airport at that inhuman hour to meet us and have a coffee with us before our flight to Nelson.

 

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Colombia – San Andrés Island in the Caribbean Sea

We flew from Cartagena to San Andrés Island, shaped like a sea horse, which is around 800 Kms north west of Colombia, directly east of Nicaragua and directly south (by a very long way!) of the Cayman Islands, in the Caribbean Sea.  So now you can picture where we are.  The island is only 27 square kms in size and is covered in coconut palms and white sandy beaches – the water is so warm and clear, it’s an absolute dream to swim and snorkel there.  Oh and it’s a Duty Free island so there’s no end of cheap damage you can do to your liver. Continue reading

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Colombia – Cartagena de Indias on the Caribbean Coast

The old Spanish Colonial town of Cartagena, on the Caribbean coast, is absolutely beautiful, surrounded by a 13km ancient wall. Contained within the walls there are a host of gorgeous churches and Colonial buildings, some dating back to the early 16th Century. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and well worth a visit of 4 days to wander around its narrow cobbled streets and alleyways. What better way to get our bearings than on a Segway tour… Continue reading

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Colombia – Medellín and Guatapé

We left Salento at 7.30am and after 7 hours on two different buses we arrived in the city of Medellín. It’s a big bustling city of 3 million which used to be the “Cocaine capital of the world” in the 1980s, under the leadership of Pablo Escobar the drug lord, but when he was killed in 1993, the new governor turned things around and it’s a pretty big tourist mecca now. Still has a slightly seedy side to it in places though. Continue reading

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Postcards from Colombia…or not?

You would think that buying a stamp for a card or postcard, even in a foreign country, really shouldn’t be that big a deal. But in Colombia, I kept getting blank looks when I asked about where I could buy a stamp to send a birthday card to my friend Sally in England, so I had a feeling it wasn’t going to be that easy… Continue reading

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Colombia – Salento and The Zona Cafetera

As most of you know, I’m a big latte addict, so to go to a bona fide Colombian coffee plantation and taste freshly roasted coffee there was a big buzz for me. Salento is a sleepy little village in the heart of the Quindio region of Colombia, and part of the area known as the “Zona Cafetera”. The climate is tropical and the mountains are high enough to be perfect for growing Arabica coffee plants (they only grow at an altitude of 1,500-2,500 metres).
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Colombia – The capital city of Bogotá

We survived our first flight with Viva Colombia – our 19th flight I think since we started the trip – where the rows of seats are so close together that I have to sit sideways to fit my legs in and the seats have to be the most uncomfortable in the entire world. But hey, beggars can’t be choosers and when you’re looking at around US $30-60 from A to B, you certainly can’t complain!
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Ecuador – the city of Cuenca

I bet you didn’t know that the word Ecuador means Equator in Spanish? Well I didn’t either.

It was lovely flying over and into Cuenca from Quito, as it’s well known for its red tiled roofs and is surrounded by lush green rolling hills. The landscape in Ecuador is so different to what we’ve seen in Peru and Chile and overall much more attractive. Even the cows in the fields look perkier. Continue reading

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Ecuador – Quito and the true Equator Line

I had a “lightbulb moment” recently about something I have been asked twice in a café after ordering my food. Both times, the waiter had taken our order and then looked and me and asked “Holandésa?” to which I replied, “No, gracias”, thinking “Why on earth would I want Hollandaise sauce on my sandwich??” Eventually I twigged that both times they were actually asking if I was Dutch. Duh! Continue reading

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Ecuador – The Galápagos Islands 25th June – 3rd July

Well we managed to peel our eyelids open in time for the 4am start in the dark, which was ghastly, but we were fed before we left the B & B and our hostess drove us to the airport at 5am for our flight from Quito (via the Ecuadorian city of Guayaquil) to Baltra airport, just north of Santa Cruz Island. Very excited about finally getting to a more relaxing part of our trip and some sea, sand and wildlife and pretending to be David Attenborough for a while.
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